A SURFER IN SEARCH OF PARADISE

As the writer Bernardo Atxaga says: “”We’re made for paradise, the way birds are made for the air.” The Hawaiians had been catching waves for centuries, until the white man came and transformed surfing within a matter of decades. Now, we have better boards, wetsuits, surf predictions, cars, and even flights to remote islands. In return, we’ve drowned countless coastlines in cement, the beaches have filled up with surfers, and we haven’t become any happier than the native Hawaiians. That’s the question at the heart of this book, which is as easy to read as it is hard to classify: are we moving progressively closer to, or farther away from paradise? Balance is key, whether in surfing or anything else in life. It keeps us from falling and allows us to prolong the enjoyment. In other words, it allows us to come closer to paradise. — ISBN13: 9788409570126